The City by the Sea

view from our guesthouse at 7am

Mumbai: city by the sea, gateway to India, chaotic, filthy, incredible!

People who have traveled to India share a similar sentiment: sensory overload. They always spoke of the senses and how all of them are engaged and overstimulated, especially in Mumbai. Part of the adventure of travel is the sensory overload, is it not? India, according to my friends, was on another level. Smells of the intoxicating and repulsive kind were invisible threads that weaved a fragrant tapestry; sounds of touts rapidly pawning their wares or services, the not so friendly honks from car horns, and the everyday hiss, sizzle, and crunch of food being prepared all formed a fantastic fugue; sights of the carefully wrapped women in their jewel hued saris, the vibrant fruits and vegetables piled on tarps, and the filth that cakes the streets were all part of a large mural. I loved that my senses were engaged at every corner, turn, and stop while walking the streets of Coloba, a section of the city tourists frequent.

These are all part and parcel of life in Mumbai. I also liked seeing the proud Gate of India, the intricate rock caves at Elephanta Island, and the worn out cricket field where men practiced; they were all impressive in their own respect. More impressive was the ebb and flow of people living out their lives. Life is difficult here, obviously, for some more than others. But no matter what your circumstances you're allowed to try and live out your life. Etch out a meager or fruitful life for yourself in the city's rough marble.

These are some of my impressions of Mumbai. I only spent two days in the city so these insights are based on a very brief encounter. I read a novel called Shantaram. It is a great novel that tells the tale of an Australian man who escaped from prison and lead a fugitive life in Bombay, the novel is set in the 1980s when the city was called Bombay. After reading this novel, I appreciate the glimpse I got into this intriguing city. Check out the book if you want to learn more about life in Mumbai.


 

The First Bite: India

One of the things I looked forward to most about India was eating the food. There were a few let downs, but mostly gems in Mumbai. Mumbai is the capital of the Maharstra state which is a large stretch of barren land. Apparently, the people have a simple diet subsisting of grains and pulses. Not very exciting. However, India is a large country and each region has its own unique variations of popular dishes. Since people from all over India live in Mumbai you can get any kind of Indian cuisine you want. Quite exciting!

We took advantage of that fact and tried some Parsi cuisine. The Parsis are a group of people who practice Zoroastrianism, a religion started in Persia during the sixth century. Eventully the Parsis were forced to leave and some migrated to India. Parsi cuisine is a mix of Northwest Indian food. We ate at Ideal Corner, a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet guidebook. I loved the quirky and colourful interior: a beautiful creamsicle orange with bold royal blue trim. It was full of business men and shoppers grabbing a quick bite.

Atheli Aloo Chicken Masala

Andrew and I tried two Parsi dishes: mutton curry and atheli aloo chicken masala. The masala was heavy on the garlic, onion, and spices in a good way. It was full of tangy flavour with a hint of heat. Andrew's mutton curry was tasty but the meat was a bit tough.

Samosa with sweet chili sauce

                                    
The real star in the city by the sea was the street food! Street food is always good because it's cheap, just what the budget traveler wants and needs, and it's delicious. I know a lot of people who hesitate to eat street food because they think they'll get sick. I've eaten a lot of street food and haven't been sick. So, I don't mind taking the risk, especially with the delicious eats you can find on the streets of Mumbai. The samosas at the stand we found by chance after seeing the sights and sounds of Crawford street market were incredible. They were in a tender and flaky pastry package that had a potato filling full of the flavours of India: coriander, turmeric, cumin and curry. We washed down our samosas with hot chai teas. Delicious!

The photo above is the most unique and complex street food I've had: bhlel puri. Bhlel puri is its name in Mumbai; masala puri outside Mumbai.  It's kind of like a nacho. It has a crispy base and layers of ingredients are stacked on top of it. But that's where the similarities end. First, the vendor took a crispy papdi, a savoury chip made from flour, next he put a spoonful of stewed chickpeas, than a coriander chutney followed by a sweet chutney, than a mixture of chopped red onions and  tomatoes and, finally, a shower of sev, rice vermicelli noodles. This is quite the mouthful of flavours and textures! As you can imagine all the ingredients mingle together and create a sublime combination of tastes that dip from savoury to sweet to sour and back again. All on a twoonie sized chip!

Those are some of the foods we've enjoyed so far. I'll be posting again soon about my first impressions of Mumbai and Goa.