Himalayan High Day 6

Success--Annapurna Base Camp! After five long days of trekking I reached my goal and it felt unbelievable. Feelings of ache and pain were replaced with awe and wonder at the panorama of mountains around me. The sky was the deepest blue I've ever seen during the day and it set an astonishing backdrop for the blindingly white snow capped mountains. It felt incredible to be amongst them. Here are the pics.

Some of the teahouses at basecamp

Annapurna I

 

Macchupuchre aka The Fishtail to the far right

Annapurna South

Himalayan High Day 5

The day started off well with easy trails and beautiful forest scenery. Once we neared Deurali (3200m elevation), the last village before the base camps, we stopped for a snack and some tea with fellow trekkers. We looked at the mountains; they were all snow peaked and took our breaths away. 

Further along, a beautiful valley opened up with a river, but my body was slowing down, and fast.  The ground was a muddy-snowy-slush and made walking difficult. I pushed on. After two hours, I felt like I’d been walking forever.  My shoulders felt numb, the air was thin, and my legs were jelly and I told Andrew I needed a break. I felt base camp couldn’t come soon enough. I kept telling myself we’ll be there soon. It was just enough to keep me going. 

A long while later, Andrew broke the news to me.  He asked descending trekkers how far we were from MBC.  Replying to me, Andrew said, “You don’t want to know.”  It was a harmless enough statement but in my exhaustion I sat on a rock and teared up. “I can’t do it. I can’t walk anymore,” I moaned. Andrew patiently said, “Yes you can. We'll take another break.” After five minutes he grabbed my bag and we carried on. We climbed over a hill and saw a glorious sight: MBC! 

I was thrilled. The trekkers told Andrew 45 minutes to one hour. We were there in 15 minutes. I felt a bit foolish for my tears and self doubt but that quickly faded as we passed by Macchupacchre, nicknamed the fishtail for its twisting peak - one of many Himalayan giants we would see up close. We stopped for the day at MBC. It felt great because we were so close to our goal ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) which we'd tackle in the morning.

Himalayan High Day 4

Surprisingly, I woke up early; not surprisingly, my body felt stiff and achy. But, today was going to be relatively easy: some stone staircases and "Nepali flat" trails. I ate breakfast and prepared myself for the day ahead. 

Annaupurna South and I

It was a lovely day for trekking.  The evening rain had cleared the sky and it made for a beautiful morning. We started trekking at 8am. Since we had stayed at the first guesthouse we saw, we hadn’t really seen much of Chomrong. It was a large village comprised of Upper and Lower Chomrong. We made our way through Upper Chomrong and bumped into the British couple. The lady looked delighted to see us. “Oh, hello. Did you get caught in the storm last night? We watched it from our guesthouse. It was quite amazing. But I thought of you two. I was worried you got caught in the rain.”  We told them about our lucky break and then wished them well. They were heading back because they only had a few days vacation. They were happy with the views. I couldn’t agree more. We had clear views of Annapurna South, Annapurna I and Macchupuchre. They looked incredible.

 We started making our way down the stone staircases. It’s thousands of steps. As I walked down each one, pain seared up my calves. An hour and a half later, my legs were trembling and my knees felt like they would burst. I was actually looking forward to going up stairs. We stopped at an outpost shop in Lower Chomrong and made a wise investment: a small jar of tiger balm. It would soothe the aches and pains and also cover up our bad smell! Each step I went down I dreaded that in a few days time I would have to go back up. Chomrong is a central village where many trails connect...all roads lead to Chomrong...and we would make our way back there.  

Nepali flat trail

After going down, we crossed a river and had to make our way up some steps. Our destination was Dovan. After the stone staircases the scenery changed again. It was Nepali flat, firmly pounded dirt trails that rolled up and down. Not too difficult. The forest scenery was beautiful. Pine trees bent and twisted out of the hills in all directions and were covered in a  green moss that hung down like an old man’s beard. After stopping for some lunch around 11am, we arrived in Dovan by 2pm. It was an easy day—only 5 hours of trekking.

Dovan was a small village with only three teahouses. Obviously, not much to do. Andrew and I hung out with some of the other trekkers, played cards and stayed warm in the dining room. The next day we would head to MBC (Macchupacchre Base Camp) the last stop before we reached the final base camp.

This last photo is off two porters carrying foodstuffs. If you look closely you'll notice one is in sandals and the other is carrying a case of tuborg beer. Apparently, professional porters can carry up to 100kgs on their backs. All the porters we passed by were incredibly friendly and some encouraging! They would say almost there to us, and I felt incredibly humbled as I huffed and puffed and passed by carrying my measly 5 kg backpack. They're the embodiment of the Nepali spirit. 

Himalayan High Day 3

Today was our longest day because we were doing two days in one. It started at 4:30am. We woke-up and it was freezing in our room. I quickly got dressed trying to keep warm.  In Gorepani we were 2900 metres high but Poon Hill was another 300 metres up. I doggedly started the forty-five minute climb.  It wasn’t a hard climb, but that early in the morning I wasn’t feeling energetic. 

View from Poon Hill

Eventually, I made it to the top hoping to see amazing views of the Annapurna range and stay warm. It was 6am and freezing. A clever man was selling hot chocolate and tea for the outrageously expensive price of 200 rupees (3 dollars). The man must be turning a good profit considering rooms in a teahouse go for the same price! Good views are what we got, not great or excellent ones, and I felt disappointed. That feeling didn’t last long because I reminded myself I would be seeing the mountains close up very soon.  We went back to our guesthouse and had some breakfast. Then started the day again at 8:30am this time we were heading to Chomrong only 8 hours away! 

We had to climb a hill to leave Gorepani. Here we had excellent views of Macchupachre and Annapurna South. I thought these views were better than those at Poon Hill and most other trekkers agreed. Andrew was happily taking pictures. And he captured a great shot with prayer flags, rhododendron flowers and mountains—quintessential Nepalese scenery.

After a lovely walk through rolling trails and down stone steps, we stopped in Tarepani for lunch. We met up with a British couple in their mid-fifties. They had been to Nepal several times and this time they were doing a short trek to Chomrong. “We’re addicted to the mountains and the people,” the woman quipped. I could see why. The mountains, from the little I’d seen, were stunning and the people were amazingly friendly and generous to share their homes, food and beautiful natural landscapes with trekkers. The lady was impressed that Andrew and I had made it to Tarepani by 12pm and had already climbed Poon Hill. I asked if they were stopping at Tarepani, assuming they would be taking it easy, and was surprised when they said no. They would go to Chomrong. They looked fit and familiar with the mountains but still it’s hard work. I don’t know why the lady was impressed with us...I was far more impressed by her and her husband. 

So they left us and we quietly ate our lunch. Earlier at breakfast we said it wouldn’t be so bad if we stopped before Chomrong, but now while chewing granola, and watching the middle-aged couple march off to Chomrong, we felt we couldn't be outdone. After a few moments Andrew said, “There’s no way we’re stopping before Chomrong now. We’re younger; we have to do it.” I quietly smirked and nodded consent.

Forest trail to Tarepani

Pride is a powerful motivator. It got us down one and a half hours of stone staircases and pride motivated us up an hour of stone stairs and trails. In Nepal, I learned quickly, you have to go down to go up and vice versa. Again the scenery was marvelous. Overcast skies gave the valley and hills of terraced farms a mystic look. Those overcast skies quickly turned dark grey and threatened thunder showers. After several hours of trekking, the usual pains, sore calves and numb shoulders, had settled in my body. Could pride keep us going?

 When I wasn’t taking in the scenery, my mind occupied itself with several thoughts. First and foremost, I thought about Chomrong. It seemed like Chomrong would never come and the teahouses we passed  looked awfully inviting. Then, I thought about opening up a massage store somewhere on this trail, Chomrong perhaps? Then I moved on to pride and how I was no longer motivated by it. A clap of thunder interrupted my train of thought and that motivated me to move quickly for a good hour.

Even the threat of rain wore off and I found a better motivator: chocolate! Well, half a twix bar and ten minutes with my legs up got me through the last bit. We asked the shop owner how long it would take to get to Chomrong, he said an hour. At this point we figured we get caught in the rain but the sugar was starting to perk us up and we hustled to get to Chomrong. 

Foothills to Chomrong

After 30 minutes of quick walking, we saw a teahouse with the owner sitting outside. We asked her if this was Chomrong and she said yes and rooms are 200 rupees. We stayed there and collapsed on our bed. A minute later, thunder clapped again and rain poured down. I looked at Andrew and he said, “It’s times like these I really think there is a God.” I laughed. The day was over. 

Never underestimate the restorative powers of a hot shower and hot food. The shower at my Chomrong teahouse wasn’t luxurious: a concrete floor, tin walled room, solar power hot water, but it was the best shower I’d ever had as the warm water helped me forget the more persistent aches and pains of our longest day. The daal bhat, rightfully said to give Nepalis 24 hour power, was amazing. It is an endless meal, like the Indian thali, of lentil curry, stir fried green vegetables and rice. We ate well. We fell asleep with warm food in our bellies and to the metallic sound of rain pitter-pattering on the tin roof.

Himalayan High Day 2

Rhododendron flowers

 Hearing that today was going to be an easy day, read: no stone staircases, perked my spirits. The walk to Gorepani was a pleasant stroll through rhododendron forests. I was already amazed by the diversity of the landscape and I had more, much more, to see. We were there by 1pm and had lots of time to enjoy this small village. Gorepani was a lovely place with quaint teahouses that dotted the area, and we got our first view of Annapurna South. Our teahouse had a communal fireplace which kept us nice and toasty, but the highlight was the view of Annapurna South from our room.  

View of Annapurna South

The reason most people head to Gorepani is to trek up Poon Hill (3200metres). From Poon Hill you can get great views of the Annapurna mountain range, that is if the weather co-operates.  Many people who can’t do a longer trek hike Poon Hill. At only three to five days it is an easy way, well, relatively easy, not counting the stone staircases up to Ulleri, to see the Himalayas. We heard good things about Poon Hill and decided to add it as a side trip to the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.

 

One of my favourite stops: Gorepani!

After a hot shower, I was warming myself by the fireplace and coming around to the idea that trekking isn’t so bad. But that moment quickly faded as it dawned on me that tomorrow I would have to trek up Poon Hill and then to Chomrong. It would be ten hours of trekking starting at 4:30am. Pushing thoughts of the hard day aside, I enjoyed the comforts and views afforded by my teahouse.

Himalayan High Day 1

There’s nothing quite like being surrounded by mountains on all sides , and, not just any mountains—the  Himalayas! It’s an awesome feeling standing in a valley and having the Annapurna range all around you, but that feeling comes after a lot of hard work. So, it’s breathtaking to see and breathtaking to get too.

I'll admit, I was intimidated by the thought of trekking through the Himalayas. Was I ready to hike up and down trails, stone staircases and the switchbacks described in the guidebook? In spite of the author’s insistence that you didn’t need to be an Olympic athlete to trek in Nepal, I certainly didn’t agree. However, the thought of my reward, the Annapurna range, abated my fears and got me excited for the adventure. 

 Andrew and I planned on doing the Annapurna Sanctuary trek with a side trip to Poon Hill. This trek typically takes about 10-14 days.

Pokhara is a small town in Nepal, but is set-up to help travelers become trekkers. We bought and rented some of the needed gear. We would followed the tried and true method for staying dry and warm: layers. We bought some gortex and fleece pants. We rented winter jackets and sleeping bags. We also stocked up on muesli, granola, nuts and peanut butter to keep us energized. Water purification tabs would reduce costs and minimize our reliance on bottled water. We had all the gear; now we just needed to get to the trail.

On the first day, Andrew and I started our journey in Naya Pul, a small village a short drive from Pokhara. So far the peaks had been hiding but as we drove to Naya Pul they revealed themselves.  I felt it was a good sign, as if the mountains were welcoming us.

Of course, not all welcomes are friendly. The trail from Naya Pul started off gently enough but it gradually became hard. We were walking on a trail and it wasn’t so bad, in fact, the scenery was lovely. The trail followed a stream and meandered through small villages and farms. Then it continued to go through a forest and we occasionally climbed stone staircases. I had trouble deciding if I preferred the stone staircases over the trail. At this point I concluded that the staircases were short and easy to climb and a nice change from the trail.

Four hours later, we started climbing the real Nepali stone staircases. Whereas, the other ones had been ten steps at a time, these ones were about twenty to thirty steps of varying heights, sometimes they would be small and other times they would be a foot high. It was like a giant and dwarf compromised when building the stairs! Our destination for the day was Ulleri at 2100metres. Looking up at the never ending staircases I thought I wouldn’t make it. 

The mountains were letting us know it wouldn't be easy....There must have been thousands of stairs. As I climbed up the last hundred every muscle in my legs burned. My back ached from carrying my bag all day.  But I never felt so relieved to reach a guesthouse when I climbed the last steps to Ulleri. I wasn’t the only person feeling relief, a British fellow we met on the trail asked me as he finished climbing his final steps up to our guesthouse, “Are you as shattered as I am?”. I answered, “Yes. And I’m not sure if I can be put back together!”. We laughed, in spite of the difficult day, we were relieved and happy to be done.

 We had a great time at our first guesthouse, meeting fellow trekkers, many we continued to bump into along the way, eating dal bhat, drinking tea, and, most importantly, recuperating. One day down; ten more to go.